Reg Rootes: memories of Shorne Woods

I was born in Harvel in 1928 but moved to Garden Road Cottage, Shorne in 1929 and moved to Boghurst (Boughurst is a Meopham family name) Cottage, 44 Brewers Road, Shorne, DA13 3HD in 1934. Our family was told that the cottage was formerly Lord Darnley’s Gamekeepers Lodge but I have not had this confirmed.

Woodland management

In the 1930s and 40s many of the large oak trees in the woods were felled. To fell the trees, firstly an axe was used to make a cut all the way round the trunk and then a two or four man cross saw was used to finish the job. The branches were then cut off and the trunks taken away by a team of six shire horses, as shown in the 1949 photograph below. After the woodsmen had finished work we would go and collect some of the left over branches that we used for firewood.

The Royal Engineers would have practice and training in explosives, blowing up the tree stumps that had been left in the ground, they would dig a hole under the stump, place the explosives in the hole and blow the stump out of the ground, which only left a fairly small crater.  I don’t have any idea how many they blew up but they used to come to the woods once a week to carry this out.

Coppicing was a big business, supplying chestnut fencing in three or four feet lengths. The coppicing was done every ten years or so, the cut down trees being tied into bundles of about 20, taken by lorry and stacked to season. The areas to be cut were measured in cants (I think this was the measurement but I’m not certain) and the trees on the perimeter of the area were marked with a chalk cross. In those days all the felling was done with a 6lb (2.7 kilo) axe, no such thing as a chain saw as is used today.

The timber was first cut to length, then de-barked and split into quarters to make the fence palings. De-barking was done by using a shaving brake made from branches, the longer of  which had a V shaped  end, these had to be  fixed into the ground some two to three feet apart, with the V shape at the top (see the diagram below). The timber was then laid into the shaving brake and the person had to stand at the lower end and use a draw knife to do the de-barking as shown in the diagram on the left. After the timber was de-barked, it had to be split (also called riving or cleaving) into quarters with  a cleaver and a hand made club made with timber from the wood. No further work had to be done, this was the finished paling.

The woodsman built a wooden shelter for themselves using timber from the woods to make the frame and the shavings they made from the de-barking, together with bracken, was used as the roof covering. This would be their home for the duration of the time spent working in the wood.

I spent the summer of 1937 helping the woodsmen and when the work came to an end I was presented with the princely sum of half a crown and a new three penny piece. My father was not impressed with my payment, to say the least.

My father became a woodcutter for Stanhope Fencing Company, who were based in Essex. One  of  the  woods that they were contracted to coppice  was Shorne so he didn’t have far to travel when he worked there.

RAF towers

There were two RAF radio towers that I know of, one was in the grounds just outside the eastern end of our garden of our cottage, and the other was in the woods, but like the Crows Nest I can’t remember where, although I do remember it was to the left of the Crows Nest when we went into the woods. The towers were built on a foundation of four concrete blocks about three feet square that were sunk into the ground. They were of an open wooden construction, much like an electricity pylon today, on wooden legs and were about 15 feet square at the base, 100 feet high with a five feet square platform at the top and if I remember correctly an aerial in one corner. The radio control room was in between the cottage and the road, built underground and you had to go down a few steps to get in, it was fairly narrow and just room for no more than four men to operate the radio equipment that was along one wall and from the outside all that showed was a bump in the ground that followed the curved shape of the roof. I believe that there was a similar tower in Dunkirk, that’s Dunkirk in Kent not France.

The RAF personnel, in the control room, had no water so would come to the cottage for this and in return they would occasionally give us a tin of jam or margarine or loaf of bread, you can imagine with a family of seven to feed how much this was needed and appreciated.

The radar tower in the woods was demolished after the war when the clay workings were extended. The four concrete foundation blocks (the same as the tower next to the cottage) were dug up by one of the clay works grab machines and left in the woods for years after, as far as I know they could still be there. From what I remember one of the tower was the transmitter and the other the receiver.

We saw several incendiary bombs drop and on one occasion one was quite close to the cottage so we went and put out the fire. Occasionally we heard bombs land but no explosion followed so there could still be unexploded bombs in the woods.

The army took over several houses on the east side of the woods during the war, including two houses in Pondfield Close and Big Woodlands, a house on the West side of Woodlands Lane. Fairly early in the war Big Woodlands was hit by a bomb killing two of the army personnel who were inside. After the bombing, clothing and a gas mask could be seen hanging in the trees. The council took over responsibility for the house, undertook the repairs and alterations before then letting it out as flats.

There was a bomb crater that could be seen in the woods on the left of Brewers Road as I walked home from Shorne, halfway between Woodlands Lane and Boghurst Cottage. I don’t think the alterations made when Brewers Road was altered, to run along the back of the cottage rather than the front as it used to, has made any difference to where the bomb crater is in relation to the road.

There used to be a sandpit in Shorne Common Rough, that is long since gone, where children used to play, one day three children were killed when part of it collapsed and buried them.

Leading up to D Day, 6th June 1944, a tented army camp was set up with a few soldiers arriving at the start and eventually about 200 men in 30, eight man tents in the woods next to Woodlands Lane. The Kings Own Yorkshire Light Infantry, The Royal Engineers, The Royal Artillary and the Durham Light Infantry were among the different regiments, there were others but I can’t think what they were. We used to go to the camp to ask the soldiers for cap badges and ended up with quite a collection but they have long since disappeared. There wasn’t much evidence of heavy artillery but one day we did see a truck towing a cannon.

During the hours of darkness there was a guard at each end of Woodlands Lane who issue the famous challenge ‘Who goes there friend or foe?’ we were never brave enough to say ‘foe’ just in case they shot us!

We weren’t issued with an Anderson or Morrison shelter so we dug our own air raid shelter in the garden. We dug out the clay and filled sandbags and made our shelter, we only got to use it once as we didn’t take into account drainage and what would happen if there was heavy rain, sure enough it flooded and we were faced with the table we had put in there floating and the shelter unusable.

I have included a copy of what was a restricted plan of the five RAF camps in Shorne and Cobham Woods.

After the war

I was married in 1951 when there was a shortage of council houses so in July 1952 we were allocated hut No.64b on site No. 5 in what had been the RAF camp during the war, our official address was 64b Laughing Waters (which is now called ‘Inn on the Lake’) The site that we were on was wooden huts but on the other side of the A2, in Shorne Woods, near the Laughing Waters it was Nissen huts. We had running water and electricity and toilets were a communal block shared by six families. Heating and cooking was done using the ‘Kitchener’, this was a solid wood stove with an oven on one side. We were there until May 1954 when we were transferred to our new house in Higham. The no. 23 bus stopped in Halfpence Lane at the road entrance to the site so we were able to get to work or into town fairly easily.

My father worked as a conveyor belt attendant in the clay works in the late 1950’s, one of his jobs was making sure that the belt wasn’t overloaded. The clay was slurried and pumped through the underground pipe to Bevans Cement Works in Northfleet, in addition to this some untreated clay was also taken by lorry to the cement works in Halling. Even though there were restrictions on the lights used during the war (all vehicles  and  bicycles had shades  for  their lights  so that  nothing  could be  seen from above) the clay works was still being worked throughout the night. One day one of the cranes fell into the pit and there were lengthy discussions as to whether it would be able to be rescued or not, I don’t know what the final decision was so it could still be there!

I remember the Crows Nest into the early 1950’s although it was dilapidated and no longer in any condition to be climbed.

From A. F. Allen’s book “Shorne: the history of a country village” (1987, Meresborough books).

We were always told that it was built by Lord Darnley to watch his son, Ivo Bligh, sail up the Thames on his return from Australia with the ‘Ashes’ but do not have anything to prove this statement.

It was about 10 feet square and 50 feet high and stood on a high point in the woods, exactly where I don’t know but it was probably within the area of the clay works, when it was extended so the tree that it was built round would not be there today.

(As told to Trevor Bent in November 2009.)

Hut 64

The huts were apex-roofed (unlike the curved Nissan huts elsewhere). Childless couples or small families occupied a hut partitioned down the middle, with a different family occupying each half. Bigger families had a whole hut.

The floor was covered in thick brown Congoleum and the walls were plasterboarded. Heat was given by a slow-combustion stove with a free-standing flue pipe going up through the roof. It burned wood or coal. Dead wood could be taken from the woods around – coal was delivered by Black’s of Cobham. This stove could obviously get very hot and it was a wonder some of the huts didn’t burn down by accident.

There was a sink in one corner and on the opposite wall was a Kitchener range for cooking on. This room was big enough to accommodate a table and chairs. There were two others rooms down a small corridor: one was used as a sitting room, the other as a bedroom (the door to this had the name on it of the Petty Office who presumably occupied it when it was part of the HMS Pembroke Navy base at Chatham (after it had been given up by the RAF). The rent was 8/- (eight shillings) – couldn’t remember if this was weekly or monthly – and it was collected every Tuesday by the rent collector.

The huts had no lavatory. Occupants had to use one of several lavatory blocks around the Laughing Water site. There was a six-cubicle block close to hut 64B (probably in the area of hut 71). It had no wash basins or showers. Washing had to be done back in the hut using the sink or a tin bath. The shop (in the area of Hut 7, ringed in yellow) was a general store run throughout our time there by Mr Mepham. There were no formal gardens but some people tried to cultivate the area round their huts; but the shade from thick woodland, particularly horse chestnut, meant that potatoes (for example) would grow tall vines but no potatoes! Some people did not bother to decorate their huts (as the accommodation was always intended to be ‘temporary’) but we wallpapered ours and made it look homely (floral wallper at 2/3 a roll). No recollection of lighting on the site at night other than the light which came from the huts. A number of babies were born at the camp. Andrew was born on 12th May 1954, delivered by district nurse and midwife Nurse Backhouse (from Harvel). We moved to the council estate at Higham 17 days later.

From the collection of the late Reg Rootes, who lived in Hut 64B at Ashenbank

(Recollections of Reg Rootes, who lived in hut 64B from July 1952 to May 1954.  Related, aged 87, in November 2015)

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Anita Bridger: memories of the military camps

I know that we were living in the Laughing Waters camp in 1948 as that was the year my sister Wendy was born (now Wendy Johnson) but by 1949 we had moved to the Lodge Lane camp. I don’t remember anything about life at the Laughing Waters camp except for the milk being delivered by horse and cart. The cart had the milk churns on the back and my mother had to take a jug to be filled from the churn.

The lady next door always had an apple for the horse so it used to stop there and wouldn’t move until it had been given the apple.

It is possible that we moved to Lodge Lane as I started at Cobham village school in 1949 when I was five. There were children at the school not only from Cobham but also other local villages. I can remember one girl coming from Meopham.

Our Lodge Lane hut had originally been one big room but had been divided into separate rooms by the time we moved in. There was a round black stove, with a chimney through the ceiling, in the middle of the room. My step father, mother, brother, sister and myself lived there for two years until we moved to Kitchener Avenue on Kings Farm Estate in 1951.We had electricity and water in the hut but no bathroom or hot water, we had to use the tin bath which was kept hanging on the outside wall.

I can’t remember any details of the camp or the hut but I know we had to go down a bank to the camp. I don’t think our hut was a Nissan hut, although I can’t really remember but it seemed quite a normal building. I don’t remember any roads on the camp but I think there were pathways around the huts. I would say there were more than six huts but I couldn’t estimate any nearer than that. (See note below).

I can’t say exactly where the camp was but I remember that when we walked home from school we went past the Cobham war memorial, along Lodge Lane and turned off right across a field; I do know it wasn’t as far as the Mausoleum. There used to be a blacksmith in the village so sometimes we used to sit on the gate and watch him working. I can also remember the village baker; his shop is now a house.

I don’t remember playing with any other children on the camp but I did spend a lot of time with my grandparents. They lived in a cottage in Green Farm Lane, Shorne and we would have to walk all the way from Cobham to go and see them. I remember a bomb crater near their cottage that had landed in a pile of manure causing quite a mess! There used to be ploughing matches in the surrounding fields and my grandfather won several prizes.

Two brothers lived on the camp, they had been bombed out when they lived in London and their wives had been killed. I think they must have had the first television on the camp as they used to put seats out for us so that we could watch their television. They also used to give us bags of sweets to eat while we were there.

We went into Gravesend on the bus, usually on a Saturday morning, to go the Co-op where my mother would order the weekly groceries which would be delivered to us at the camp. I can’t remember what was on ration but I remember my mother handing over coupons when she put in her order. The bus went from Cobham to Gravesend via Singlewell Road where a lady would get the bus and she always had a big bag of sweets for me.

We used to go hop picking in Halfpenny Lane, the last day of hop picking was party day and we used to get a day off school for it.

My grandfather had a POW working on the Green Field Lane farm in 1944 when I was born and over breakfast one day he remarked that I looked like an Anita and that’s how I got my name. After we moved to Palmer Avenue we used to play on the Gravesend Airfield and go into the underground rooms where we found the odd bullet or two. In the 1950’s Heinz owned the airfield and there was still an aeroplane using the airfield. It used to come in very low over Kings Farm estate and was stopped because it was thought to be too dangerous. The last building to be demolished on the airfield was the conning tower in the late 1960’s.

Note : Since this interview with Anita an aerial photograph of the Lodge Lane camp has been found that confirms Anita’s memories, although there are more huts than her estimated six! The camp was built for use of servicemen who were stationed at the Lodge Lane heavy anti-aircraft battery. The gun emplacements can clearly be seen in the photograph below.

We also have a LiDAR image of Lodge Lane heavy anti-aricraft battery (below).

Here is a photograph of the Palmer venue Coronation 1953 street party. The entrance to AEI sports ground is just past the houses on the right and Anita is on the right of the photograph in the long black coat.

(As told to Trevor Bent in September 2016.)

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Cobham exhibition highlights

Hugh has kindly put together a video from the Cobham exhbition. Click here to view it on YouTube.

 

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Betty Bicker-Robinson: memories of Park House, Cobham

Early life

I was born in New Barn as Betty King and lived there until we moved to Gravesend when I was about 10 but this was only for a short while and then we moved again, this time to Cobham when I was about 12.

We lived in one of the four cottages that were where the general store car park is now situated and opposite the ‘Olde curiosity Shoppe’ that was owned by Mrs Hoppe who was a lace maker. We had no electricity so had to take a candle with us when we went to bed. My mother would mark the candle, so that we didn’t burn it for too long but sometimes we would re-mark it if we burnt it for longer than we should have.

There were ten of us and money was scarce so our staple diet was bread and dripping or bread and jam.

Little Dorrits café was opposite where today’s General Store is and remember that they used to serve the forces stationed at Cobham during the war.

I went to Cobham School until I was 14 and when I left I went to work in the gardens of Cobham Hall for Lord Darnley where two of my jobs were to plant bulbs in the autumn and pick the very special daffodils in the following spring that were then sold in Lord Darnley’s flower shop at Rede Court, Knights Place, Strood.

Another job that I had was that after snowfall I had to mop up water in the hall that was the result of the snow on the roof melting and dripping through the ceilings. It was here that I first met young Ernie Bicker and fell in love.

Park House

My sister, Violet Jacobs, her husband and four children lived in the cottage, called Park House, that had previously been the gamekeeper’s cottage. It was rented to my sister and her husband when the gamekeeper left and although there were still a lot of deer in the woods at the time it was no longer required that a gamekeeper lived there.

The cottage was about 200 yards east of the Mausoleum and on the same track. I think the best way of describing what the cottage was like is by drawing a plan so I have asked my friend Arthur to draw one.

Plan of Park House

When my sister’s husband was called up to go into the army in 1942 my mother sent me to live with her in the cottage, so that she would not be alone and to help her cope with her four children. The first winter I was there, there was a lot of snow and it was very difficult to get anywhere until it thawed.

At the time, I was courting Ernie, who became my husband in 1947, and I asked his mother if he could move in with us as we felt we needed a man about the house at night for protection. She agreed to this and Ernie moved in. Ernie slept in one of the upstairs bedrooms and I slept downstairs in the sitting room. Hardly the best arrangement for him to protect us!

My mother thought that it was just a crush that I had on Ernie so she sent me off to join my sister Lena in the Land Army in Gloucestershire where I drove Fordson tractors but I only stayed there for about a year and then returned to the village to live with my mother for a while, before moving back to the cottage. I simply couldn’t stay in the Land Army any longer as I wanted to get back home to see Ernie even though it cost me a good hiding with the slipper from mum!

I can remember one day when I was working at Cobham Hall, walking across the lawn on the south front carrying a very big bunch of daffodils, Lord Darnley said “You need a perambulator to carry those in”. I didn’t know that he was suggesting I needed a ‘pram’ as I’d never previously heard it called a perambulator. It wasn’t a problem as I had a barrow that worked perfectly well. On another occasion he told me that I should call him ‘My Lord’ but I don’t think that I ever did!

Before I moved into Cobham Hall I used to ride my bike between the cottage and the Hall four times a day as I always went home for lunch at midday.

Although life at the cottage was hard, with no electricity, main drainage or reliable water supply I loved the wildlife and isolation, we never had any visitors, and enjoyed the time that I lived there.

There was a single storey building to the rear of the cottage. This was known as the ‘bread oven’ building for the obvious reason that it housed a large bread oven. The long handled ‘shovel’ was still there but the oven was not used while I lived at the cottage.

Part of this building was used as the toilet and there were two buckets that had to be emptied in the woods. We kept our bicycles and pram in another part and it also served to house our chicken.

Plan of the bread oven

As most people did, we had a tin bath hanging on the wall and it was taken down and put in front of the fire on a Friday night, filled with water heated on the Kitchener and we all took turns, in the same water!

Sometimes the mains water didn’t reach the cottage and Ernie and I had to carry the bath to Knights Place, fill it with water and carry it back to the cottage. There was always a boggy patch near the cottage so I suspect that there was a leak in the water pipe. This was not the only hard job we had. We also had to cut wood for the fire with a two man saw and then split it with an axe. In the winter we would cut wood in the dark and had to take a torch with us so that we could see what we were doing.

The coalman wouldn’t deliver to the cottage but it would have been quite expensive to buy coal and as money was very tight, wood was definitely the best option. There was a coal chute in the cellar but this was rarely used as we would cut wood as we needed it, virtually on a daily basis.

Apart from the coalman, the postman and milkman would also go no further than the Lodge in Lodge Lane so we were really isolated. My future mother in law lived in the Lodge at Lodge Lane (paying 2/6d a week rent) and would help us out by taking in our supplies delivered from Mr Ganders shop in the village. We could always go to the shop in Cobham when we had the money but we lived mainly on what we grew. I can remember growing cabbages, brussels, parsnips, swede, turnips and carrots in the garden which lasted us the whole year round.

We had to go to the shop in Cobham village mainly for bread, flour and Fussels condensed milk. This was alright when the weather was OK but a real problem in the snow of my first winter at the cottage.

There was a paling fence around the property and we grew all our own vegetables and would snare rabbits, which we were allowed to, and also shoot the occasional pheasant, that we weren’t allowed, but we did anyway! We also kept one chicken, so we had one egg between us all!

There was a brick building next to Brewers ponds that we called the ‘Water House’ but didn’t know what it was used for. There was also a poultry yard with about twelve chickens that was looked after and the eggs collected for the hall by Annie Hall who lived at Brewers Gate.

During the war years there were barrage balloons outside the Mausoleum, which still looked splendid as it hadn’t been vandalised back then. There were ack-ack guns at Lodge Lane that went off quite regularly and when they did the whole house shook!

I saw and heard the V1 (Doodle Bugs) and V2 rockets go over and would listen when they went quiet but I never heard an explosion from one.

There was also a small mound with a few trees on it that was called Peggy Taylors Hill after the name of the lady who hanged herself there. I think that she may have been a maid at the hall and a ‘friend’ of Lord Darnley but I can’t be positive.

Chauffeur’s quarters*

After a few years with no reliable water supply, or other services, to the cottage, it became rather dilapidated but fortunately the Chauffeur’s quarters at Cobham Hall were not occupied at that time (as Lord Darnley didn’t have a chauffeur) so my sister Violet, her four children and myself were allowed to move in there. Violet’s fifth child was born there on 27th October 1947.

Ernie didn’t move in with us and went back to live with his parents at the lodge.

Although the chauffeur’s quarters were attached to the Hall, you had to go outside in order to get into the Hall but since then it has changed and there is now direct access into the Hall.

After we moved out of the cottage it was only ever let to temporary occupants and it gradually went to rack and ruin and was demolished in the 1950’s

Lord Darnley asked Ernie to look after the electric mains that were near the clock in the courtyard. Ernie wasn’t an expert but agreed that he would. One Boxing night it went up in flames and did a lot of damage, including to the clock. Ernie was worried that he would be blamed but he never was as an electrical fault was thought to have been the cause.

I was still living in the Chauffer’s quarters at Cobham Hall when I got married to Ernie; we were married at Chatham Registry Office on October 14th 1947. Lady Darnley (Rosemary Potter) gave us a wedding cake that she had ordered from the USA and on the morning of the wedding Lord and Lady Darnley came and shook hands and gave us their best wishes.

Betty and Ernie on their Wedding Day at Chatham Registry Office 14th October 1947

There was a house becoming available in Round Street when we married but the lady who lived there had just lost her husband and we didn’t want to force her to leave. Luckily for us there was a Nissan hut available at Lodge Lane so we moved in there for a few months. Ernie was given a job as a fruit man by Mr Lawrence, the farmer.

When the Round Street house became available we moved to ‘Sunnyside’ Round Street on 1st May 1948 and I’m still here today.

(As told to Trevor Bent in September 2016.)

* See Comment below.

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Cobham residents – we need you

*Note there is no parking at the College, but plenty of parking in the village, behind the school.

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